We have done our best to design THE Car to be simple and easy to build. THE Manual also cover most details relating to the build. On this page we go through some of the critical steps of building THE Car.

1. Fueltank Clunk

When you insert the L-shaped fuel line extension, pull the fuel line out a bit, and then insert the extension. Then push it into the hole in the tank. You need to push it in all the way, so the plastic nipple is inside the tank. Rotate the tube and nipple while pusihing it in,  otherwise it is nearly impossible. If you cant get it in, you can put some silicone oil on the tube to make it easier. Make sure that the clunk isn't too far into the tank, touching the back wall. The clunk needs to be a few mm from the back at all times so it can move freely.

Maku sure the clunk is a few millimeters from the back wall at all times, after you have assembled everything.

Insert the L shaped fueltank nipple all the way. Twist it round and round and push it in at the same time. 

2. Rear Brace

It has come to our attention that the rear brace would be easier to assemble at an earlier stage, before the rear link. On page 10 in the manual, while assembling BagG, it is a good idea to take the rear brace out of BagK on page 15 and assemble it.

3. Centre dogbones

When running the weight fully forward, the rear dogbone reaches the outer edge of the rear gearbox centre outdrive. For added security, it is a good idea to place a small piece of fueltubing in the centre diff outdrive. I normally cut a 3mm piece. To hold the fueltubing in the outdrive, i put some thick grease on it. You can use this same idea for the front dogbone when setting up the weight in the middle position.

Put some tubing in. No way thats 3mm in that pic...

4. Free THE Arms

THE Arms need to move freely without binding. You can easily check this by raising them, with nothing attached to them, no hubs or shocks. They should fall under their own weight without binding. First check the hingepin in the arm, if it is at all tight, use a reamer to clean the hole. When assembling, make sure not to overtighten the long gearbox screws that secure the arm holders. They are designed to eliminate play. When the car is new, if you tighten them tightly, they will make the arms bind. So after tightening them make sure the arms are free. The screws stay in even when they are just tightened lightly, as they are secured by a nyloc nut.

5. Centre Diff Mount

The centre diff mount step is a critical one. Getting this right the first time, really saves a lot of trouble. Take your time and make sure to build it perfectly. The best way to assemble it is to put it all together, insert the diff, and place it on a flat surface, then make sure it is not tweaked, by loosening the 4 screws that hold the plate on, and then tightening them. Then when all the screws are in, take them out one by one and locktite them. Locktite everything on this mount, and do it well. I ran my centre diff mounts for one whole year with no maintenace at all. Yes I was paranoid at first, but they really do stay together. Do it right the first time!

Build it right!

For the brake actuators, the links with the loop in them, it is a good idea to insert them without loctite, and then re-adjust them after building the radiotray and throttle linkage. This is because servos are different, and as such the height of the servo and the link will be different. After you check the actuators move freely, loctite them in place. NOTE! The transponder mount needs to be off.

There is also a mistake in the manual. In the step where the brake calipers are installed, they are installed correctly. In two later pictures where the actuators, and the diff are installed, they are wrong. They are supposed to be inserted just like in the picture under the large TL image.

We haven't made one yet, but for this kit you really need a 5mm turnbuckle wrench. Trust me on this one, you need a 5mm turnbuckle wrench or an adjustable spanner.

7. Droop Screws

For the droop screws, set them so you get the downtravel specified on the setup sheet. We may change the screws to a different kind, with a larger thicker head, with rounder corners. They may be better suited for this job.

8. Downtravel

THE Car is designed so that you can have enough downtravel with all different shock positions. When using the inner hole on the front arms, or inner or middle on the rear arms, you need to use the upper hole on the shocktowers. When using the outer holes on the arms, use the lower holes on the towers. No matter how you set it up though, the driveshafts should not pop out at any time. For the record, the driveshafts with a flatspot on the dogbone ball are for the front, and the driveshafts with the round ball on the dogbone are for the rear.

Double rows of holes on the towers for a reason!

9. THE Shock Caps

Do not overtightren the shock caps. No tools are needed. Simply tighten them with your fingers. Overtightening will break the bladder, and cause the shock to leak. They stay closed, and seal well, so gently does it.

10. THE Body

We have heard that some people find that the cutline for THE Body is too high on the sides. Take care when you cut it so you don't cut too much off. Also do not paint it like below.

Look, I spent a lot of time on the design, so you should at least show some effort!....:-)