White Edition Setup 3.0



Been doing some more testing over the past few weeks, and discovered some new ideas and setups. THECar has improved immensely! I definitely recommend you do these modifications. We have already started developing parts so you don’t need to modify anything, but for now, if you want the best out of your car, please check this out and do the work! Here are the changes, and reasons for making them:

1. FRONT AND REAR TOWERS: We added more link holes by drilling holes above the existing ones, two more high rows on the middle column on the front, and, and two more rows above the inside column on the rear. I drilled some on the middle column too but have not used them yet. NOTE: It’s easier if you drill the hole furthest away first, and then add the hole in the middle. You need a sharp drillbit and not too much pressure, so you get the “inbetween hole”.


Use another shock tower as a template. You can use the front and rear together, but it is a lot better if you use two fronts or two rears as the holes on both sides match.



This is how bad I sucked on mine. I’m sure you can do better!



I improved a bit when I did the front!


The favoured setup has been to run the front link 1 up from the stock top middle hole, and the rear link two up from the stock inside top hole. Raising the links this way works wonders on the car. The balance of the car is good, and the big difference is that now getting on the gas stabilises the car. In the past, if you got in trouble, you had to be careful not to flip over. Now, one almost has to re-learn how to drive, and when in trouble, get on the gas harder to save it from getting out of shape or flipping over. The car stays lower to the ground is a lot less likely to flip over on high grip, or due to bumps.



Front preferred setup



Rear preferred setup


Please note, that you will have to re-adjust your camber. You will need to add at least 1 degree compared to what you ran before, maybe more.


2. UPPER LINK LENGTH: With the raised links, lengthening them front and back, so top outside on front, and top middle on rear, made the car easier to drive, specially in long sweepers, and on power. But testing back to back proved, that the short links were faster. It’s your choice! The car works the best when both links are short, or both links are long, not mixed.

3. FRONT SHOCK POSITION: One of the problems we wanted to get rid of, was how the front end tended to dive a lot in bumps and corners, off power, and how when attacking the track the front end was aggressive and overpowering. The initial steering unsettled the car. To solve this, we raised the front shocks up, which doesn’t help on it’s own, but combining this with using a bigger hole piston, and thicker oil, it worked great, making it possible to drive more aggressively, with the car remaining stable and predictable.



Front shocks stood up, bigger 1.3 pistons, and 101 downtravel!


The key to this is changing the piston, and making sure you get 101mm shock length for droop. The downtravel is the challenging part, as you need to grind the arm to add clearance, and also possibly the steering links as it is more travel than they offer as new. Trust me, it is worth the effort!

4. FRONT ARM POSITION: To combat the same front end issues, we tested all different arm positions, and concluded that running both front arm inserts in the highest position works best. This reduces steering a bit, but most importantly, helps keep the front end level, it doesn’t rise up so much when on power, and doesn’t dive so much when entering corners. The car is a lot better on power, and in sweepers.

5. STEERING LINKS, BUMPSTEER: We tend to run the link in the middle hole on the ackermann plate. Toe out is about 2 degrees, with the link set at 26.5mm with hard arms, and 25.5 with stock arms. As you are raising the link on the tower, you need to adjust the steering link too. The steering links have a longer flat side, please note the direction you install them. Inside is flat side down, outside is flat side up! In addition we run a 2mm shim between the ball and the ackermann plate to lower it.

6. REAR ANTISQUAT AND TOE IN: We run either 3 or 2.5 degrees of toe in, depending on the track conditions. Less if it is bumpy, or we need more steering. More if we need more rear grip, or less steering. We always use the top row now.



Top row, 3 degrees toe in.


For antisquat, the bumpier it is, the less we run. Running the toe insert all the way up, only allows for 1 degree of antisquat. If it is bumpy, like Vegas was, we reduce that to 0.5 deg, like in this sheet, .5 insert with hole up.


7. REAR HUB POSITION: Normally we like to run just 1 spacer in front of the hub, and 3 behind. In Vegas the track was bumpy, so we moved the hub back, so that it wouldn’t catch bumps so much. Moving the rear hub back reduces the bind in the suspension when on power, which makes the car better in bumps, and it also reduces rear grip which also helps.

8. +1 HEXES: The wider hexes add grip to the car. With the changes to the front end, we were now able to run the +1 hexes on the front for more steering. +1 hexes on the rear added rear grip and stability, so we run +1 all around unless we need more steering, and then we run them only on the front.

9. WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION: Part of the team run the arrows back, engine forward, which is 2mm from all the way forward. Personally in America at least, I prefer arrows forward, engine forward, which is the furthest forward you can get. Running it this way makes the car jump and land better, and I can push the car more without having the rear and get unsettled, by squatting on one corner and losing traction. The car has a bit of a push to it when entering a corner fast, and it feels safe to drive.



Mesh with engine all the way forward.


Running the engine 2mm back, puts more weight on the rear, and more grip, less steering in hairpins, unless you enter aggressively and the rear swings round. More pendulum effect. For Euro style tracks with more flowing layouts, the engine back is often more comfortable as it makes the car feel a bit heavier and calmer, which is good, but for USA, it’s all the way forward for me.

Whichever position we run, we keep the centre diff mount in the same position, 1-2mm from fully forward.

10. DIFF OILS: With the geometry of the car the way it is, it tends to like thick oils. Thicker oils add cornerspeed, and improve acceleration. Try thicker oils front and centre. For some reason, the rear seems to work best with 3000, but front, 10k – 20k, centre 7k – 10k. Don’t be afraid to run thick oils.

11. Pistons: We drilled the 7×1.3 pistons with a 1.3mm drillbit, there was a slight difference, so the holes are just a fraction larger. Barely anything, but it made a difference. Suspension is super plush! 500/300 oils have worked in temperatures ranging from 15-25C. Fahrenheit fools can figure it out. The suspension works well when it feels soft. Eventhough it feels very soft on the bench, it doesn’t feel that way on the track. Test for yourselves, but don’t be afraid of running oils that feel thin!



Why do I have to do all the work and then just hand over the information free to everyone? Then everyone wants the cars for free too. *sigh* :-p Get out there, get testing, let’s start winning!



JQRacing gets 1st and 2nd at Silver State Warm Up!




Last week end JQ headed to Las Vegas with newly out of retirement World Champion Greg Degani. The plan was to spend 4 days testing, including a warm up race on the 2nd day. Local track record holder Kyle Johnson TQed over JQ, after two rounds of qualifying. The A main was 25 minutes long, and after a fun race on a true offroad track, bumpy and difficult, JQ took the win, and Degani finished 2nd. Track owner Chris Tocco got 3rd with his Kyosho. Local JQ racer Cody Walker made it 3 JQs in the main, finishing 9th. Great job Cody!


Bradley Baird Joins Alphaform Reds JQRacing Team!



Bradley Baird, also known as "THE Flying Irishman" has joined the Alphaform REDS JQRacing team for 2015, sealing the deal with an impressive win at Thunder Alley! Bradley having numerous National Titles under his belt will now be running REDS Racing Engines, LRP electronics, AKA tyres, Savöx servos, GHEA Accessories and Maugrafix stickers! Bradley has been in the JQRacing team for quite a few years so signing him in the factory team was a no brainer. We wish Bradley a great racing year!





Last year I performed a durability test on THECar White Edition. I built a new car for the Nitro Challenge 2014 in February in USA, and then documented each time I drove the car. I only replaced parts that broke, in order to see how the wear rate is on the car, and if anything breaks due to stress and the rigours of racing. I practiced and raced on a variety of different tracks in various different conditions, from hot South Africa, to mild Michigan, and cool Finland. Here is a list of the races I did, of the option parts I fitted my car as new. Please read the article below!

Races and Practice

Nitro Challenge, Phoenix USA

South Africa Race, and Practice, Komati and Avion.


Finnish Nats 1, Jyväskylä


Central RC Raceway Race and Practice, Michigan USA


THETrack Practice, Michigan USA


AMS Race, Alabama USA


AKA Race, Herts UK


Practice in Helsinki, Finland.


Total hours: 25 (Approximately 6 gallons)


Option Parts Fitted

JQB0349 and 350: CNC Gold Aluminium High Wingmounts

JQB0287: CNC Gold Aluminium Servo Saver Top

JQB0102: Extra set of collets used on fuel tank spring

JQB0347 and 348: Grey Medium Hard Springs


During these 25h I replaced the following parts

JQB0338: Front Arms (stretched hingepin hole in huge crash)

JQB0068: Hingepins (bent hingepin in huge crash)

JQB0100: Front dogbone (bent in crash)

JQB0101: Rear dogbone (bent in crash)

JQB0106: Brake Disks (Replaced due to wear, after 4 gallons)

JQB0183: Clutchbell bearings (Change every race)

JQB0282: Clutch Shoes (Change every race)

JQB0133: 1.1mm Clutch Spring (Change every race)

JQB0184: Clutchbell (Changed after 4 gallons)

JQB0040: Shock boots (Changed Every 42 seconds)

JQB0004: Rear Wing (Changed when it started looking too old, will depend on crashing)


Parts that I would replace in a rebuild for a big race after 6 gallons

JQB0163 Front Driveshafts

JQB0126 x 2 Gearbox bearings

JQB0125 x 4 Wheel and diff bearings

JQB0210 Chassis (This depends a lot on the tracks that you run on)

JQB062 Front and rear diff outdrives

JQB059 Centre outdrives

JQB0920, JQB0049, JQB0050 Upper links and balls

JQB0330, JQB0037 Shock o-rings and bushings

JQB0040 Shock boots

JQB0329 Shock bladder


Here you can see a video of the play the car had developed after 25 hours.



Overall the car held up really well. If there is one area where JQRacing is amongst the very best, it is the durability of the car, specially the drivetrain parts. The gears are like new! When I first started, I actually used the same set of crown and pinion gears for two years! And they still looked like new. The gears have got to be the most durable part of the car.

Shocks also last forever it seems, I didn’t even replace shock bushings or o-rings. However, for best performance, the o-rings would need replacing as they swell.

The bearings are also very durable, and will not cause problems, or even require maintenance, unless you want to make sure you have the most free drivetrain possible. Just make sure you shim the wheel bearings properly so you eliminate slop, but do not stress the bearings.


Many people definitely over think and over work.


Many people definitely over think and over work. MY goal with the car is produce one which maximises your time spent driving and racing, and minimises the time spent maintaining it. So I want it to be easy to work on, and for it to require minimal maintenance, designing it in a way where the components last a long time.

There is no need to strip the car down at every race. Normally a well built car will last for many gallons. It will definitely last for a race meeting. At a race, it makes sense to keep the car clean, and check all hingepins and shock shafts to make sure they are straight, and of course check to make sure the critical screws are tight. There is no need to dissassemble every single nut and bolt. That actually INCREASES the risk of failure.

So my advice to you, build your cars with care one time, and do minor maintenance and checks at races.

As an example, after I have built a car, I never take apart the centre diff mount or the steering, and never remove the centre mount or engine mount from the chassis. I do it properly one time, and that lasts the car’s lifetime!

Image Galleries

Full Car

Click Here


Front End Detail

Click Here

Centre Detail

Click Here

Rear End Detail

Click Here

Maintenance Checklist

If you check the list of parts here, you will get a good idea of what parts are needed, and what parts are replaced every few gallons. You don’t HAVE to do this. You can just keep on running, but this guide shows what you need to do to keep the car in top shape! Remember that driving (crashing) style, and the tracks you run on could have a significant impact on some of the parts, such as chassis, arms, links and clutch for example. They may last a lot longer, but should not wear out any faster than this list.

Maintenance Checklist


After 2 gallons

Shock Boots

Clutch shoes

Clutch springs

Clutchbell bearings


After 4 gallons

Clutchbell (check for grooves on the inside)

Front dogbone

Shock Boots

Clutch shoes

Clutch springs

Clutchbell bearings


After 6 gallons

Rear Arms

Rear Top links

Rear Top link balls

Check front driveshafts

Shock Boots

Clutch shoes

Clutch springs

Clutchbell bearings


After 8 gallons

Front Arms

Front Top Links

Front top Link Balls

Ackermann Rebuild Set

Front centre outdrive

Front driveshafts

Clutchbell (check for grooves on the inside)

Front dogbone

Shock Boots

Clutch shoes

Clutchbell bearings


After 10 Gallons

Wheel and Diff bearings

Gearbox Bevel Gear Bearings

Shock bushings

Shock o-rings

Shock lower plastic ball end

Shock springs

Diff o-rings

All Diff outdrives

Centre outdrives

Shock Boots

Clutch shoes

Clutch springs

Clutchbell bearings


Depending on the track you run on, you may have to replace the chassis and front bumper at some stage before 10 gallons. If your track is very abrasive, you should probably consider changing the chassis after about 8-10 gallons.


Gallon service packs available shortly!


Please send feedback about this article so we can improve it!








JQRacing 1st and 2nd at Thunder Alley USA


Joseph Quagraine is spending the first three months of the year in California, working on establishing JQ USA, and providing the US market a better support network, with drivers, dealers, and part support. Jeremy Kortz joined the team at the beginning of the year, and since then the 50% team and dealer network has been growing.

Irish National Champion, the OCD battling Bradley Baird has joined JQ in SoCal for two weeks for some racing and testing. For 2015 Bradley has joined the JQ Factory Team and is now running REDS engines and AKA tyres, this would be his first race with the new brands. Bradley started off with a bang, bolting on JQ's new setup, and promptly smashing the competition in last Sunday's Thunder Alley Clubrace. You can find the setup HERE.

After tough luck in qualifying JQ qualified 3rd and Bradley 5th. After the unusually set 22minute A main, Bradley took the win, with JQ in 2nd. Great start to the week of testing ahead!




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